Green-Oil White wax chain lube arrives

[Moss]

Squirt because it is water based. White Lightening second but it is solvent based.

Where's best and cheapest place to acquire some Squirt Wax Lube?

Cheers

M

[Martin Moore]

I ordered some off ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISA...E:L:OU:GB:1123

[Bally]

I ordered some off ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISA...E:L:OU:GB:1123

You are safe there Martin, that's where I got mine from.

[Bally]

Attachment 102 .

FBF, I swore by that but wax is winning me over, give it a go. No more black gunge . Will see if I'm still convinced after a wet winter!

[coolboarder]

FBF, I swore by that but wax is winning me over, give it a go. No more black gunge . Will see if I'm still convinced after a wet winter!

Bally, I used to use wax in the summer and wet lube in the winter because I was concerned about wax lube in the wet. Last winter I persevered with wax throughout and never regretted it. It is actually even more useful in the winter because there's more s**t on the drive-train and the wax sheds it. Just keep on conservatively re-lubing about every 100 miles and after each wet ride once the chain is dry again. The anti-wax brigade may hold this frequent re-lubing as a defence but in reality it takes all of 30 seconds - nothing really, especially as I will clean my bike after every wet ride anyway and a small price to pay for a self-cleaning drive-train and no more black gunge.

[Known by my posts [FBF]]

FBF, I swore by that but wax is winning me over, give it a go. No more black gunge . Will see if I'm still convinced after a wet winter!

But it is a wax lube
I will be using it through this winter.

Edit:- Finish Line ceramic.

[Bally]

I would class Finish Line ceramic as a wet lube FBF, it stays wet, Squirt and White Lightning are dry wax lubes.

[Spindoctor]

Don't have a problem with dropping the chain, but never got on with waxes. Mind you, the chain does get cleaned very often!

I think that depends on the ease of chain removal - I swear by having a quick link to take the chain off every 200 miles for a grit and salt removal. Excessive maybe, but it is noticably sweet sounding when it is put back.

[GdnReader]

At the opposite end of the scale to these experienced folks. I used Finish Line wet lube on my commuter chain all last winter. With my regime of bi-monthly chain cleans I was able to wear out my chain, cassette, and chain set in less than 10 months.
I've switched to dry lube and monthly cleans.

[Bally]

Article on BC "Top Tips: Looking after your chain by GB's Head Mechanic Mike Norris"

Lubricate the chain with a good quality bike-specific lubricant. The Tribologists (people devoted full-time to the science of reducing friction) have developed oils and additives which when used properly will make your drive-train more efficient and last longer. For wet conditions always use a ‘wet' lube and for dry conditions consider using a ‘dry' lube. Wet lubes penetrate the chain and get to the crucial roller/pin interface and stay wet resisting rain and mud intrusion to the chain - but they do attract dust (so wipe off any excess). In hot, dry conditions this can lead to a ‘paste' developing which can increase friction and wear - hence the importance of 1.

‘Dry' lube reduces the attraction of dust by using a light solvent carrier to get the friction reducing additives into the chain - the carrier evaporating once it's done its job. But I'm told by Tribolology experts that the additives aren't as effective as wet lubrication so I tend to use wet lube all year round. In summer I spend a little more time wiping off the excess and a bit more care applying less in the first place

What oil/lubrication/oil should I use?
If you only buy one get a bike specific ‘wet' lube.


http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/art...ews+-+Nov+24th